So we were about to embark on one of the most exciting tours we would take to date on our trip. 6 people, 1 driver, 1 land rover and 3 days of some of the most breathtaking scenery we would encounter.
After research into the trip before our departure we were a little apprehensive as reports of drunk drivers were rife, however after reading the comments book in the tourist information and also following recommendations from fellow travellers we were happy with our choice of tour company.
So we set off from San Pedro in a minibus, joined by the couple we had met the day before and another couple that were travelling together. After half an hour of climbing upwards we reached the Bolivian border which consisted of a small stone hut with two officials inside. Here we met our driver and vehicle we would be travelling in for the next 3 days. Leo was our driver and guide and welcomed us with hot tea and breakfast from the back of the car before we set off.
The landscape was already breathtaking, nothing but miles of deep red mountain scape and crisp blue skies. Our first stop would be to see the Laguna Verde which glimmers a beautiful light green against the red volcano looming in the backdrop. It was a very tranquil sight and Leo our driver/guide in just a short time had shown that he was very experienced, not only with his knowledge of the areas, but also extensive knowledge of the terrain which meant that throughout the trip we were always either one step ahead of other groups or at different areas so that we would be on our own as much as possible.
Following Laguna Verde we then arrived at the Termas de Polques, hot springs at 4400m above sea level. Even though it was very cold outside we couldn't resist a dip and it was well worth it! After this we headed to an area of geysers at 4800m, this is the highest we would be over the trip. The grey bubbling pools and holes with steam bellowing from them were truly like something from another planet. Lunchtime was nearing so we headed to our refuge where we would be staying for the night. After being told this would be very basic we were pleasantly surprised to find running water, flushing toilets and comfy mattresses with lots of rugs to keep us warm from the very cold night ahead of us. We were equally impressed with lunch a beautiful vegetable soup followed by hamburgers, potatoes and a gorgeous salad with fresh tomatoes and avocado...delicious!
But it was time for the highlight of the day...Laguna Colorado. This expansive lake is a rusty red colour due to the algae that lives within and is home to flocks of pink flamingos. We spent a few hours walking across the shoreline spotting the three different breeds of flamingos that inhabit the laguna, they were also accompanied by the comforting sight of llamas and we couldn't help taking endless pictures of the breathtaking vistas. Dusk was fast approaching and we needed to head back to the shelter of the refuge before the cold set in. Dinner was another 2 course feast of soup and spaghetti, but the affects of altitude were affecting me more than others and unfortunately I was quite sick for most of the night so Matt had to play nurse while he also had a splitting headache from the lack of oxygen.
The next morning after many cups of coca de mate (tea with coca leaves which is the medicinal plant used in various local medicines and can also be chewed raw - this is the same raw material for the manufacture of the drug cocaine) I was feeling marginally better the next morning and we set off for day two of our adventure. Firstly we visited a group of rock formations known as the Dali rocks as they are very similar to those seen in his paintings. The impressive formations are created from extensive sand erosion with the most famous named the Arbol de Piedra which looked like a tree. Our next stop was to an idyllic viewpoint of a volcano where you could see smoke bellowing from the top. Next was another beautiful lake with Flamingos at which point Leo produced a delicious lunch from the back of the car for us to enjoy in the surroundings. We then were headed to the area of the salt flats stopping in the town of San Juan (where Leo was born) to enjoy a delicious Quinoa beer! Quinoa is the regions largest produce. We then headed to our lodgings for the night, a Salt Hotel on the edge of the Salar. Here everything was made out of Salt including the beds, tables, chairs and the floor. Impressive! We settled in here for the night excited as the next morning as we would be getting up early for the highlight of the trip...the Salar de Uyuni.
Salar de Uyuni is over 10,000sqm and the largest salt flat in the world, it was formed from a number of prehistoric lakes that dried out and formed a salt crust across this area. The salt reaches 10m deep in some areas and also holds approx 50% of the world's lithium reserves. In the wet season the layer of water that covers the salt creates a perfect mirror effect and also due to the grounds perspective is the best spot for some amusing photo opportunities.
5.30am couldn't come quicker and we excitedly had breakfast and loaded up the car to head for sunrise over the Salar. Leo being the experienced guide that he is took us to an area in the Salar where no other vehicles were so we could enjoy this magical moment on our own...just amazing. The white Salar floor spreads as far as the eye can see flanked by the impressive Andes mountain scape. Next we headed to one of the islands that inhabit the Salar, this one being the Isla Incahuasi which is home to some amazing cacti, with some reaching over 10m high. We couldn't quite believe this green island could exist in this unbelievable landscape!
The sun was up so it was now time for us to have the opportunity to take some of those famous photographs the Salar is famous for. Once again Leo took us to a spot with no other tourists and simply said "I'm going to drive away so you can have your time alone..enjoy!". It was amazing being stood in the middle of the Salar with no one else around. I also brought my mini speaker and iPod so we put some tunes on and literally had the most fun dancing and bounding around while taking numerous pictures. It really was amazing and a moment we will all never forget.
Our time was up all to quickly and we then headed to a small Salt Museum in the middle of the Salar where we stopped to have another gourmet lunch from the boot of the car. Our time was nearly up and we had one last stop before our destination of the town of Uyuni. The train graveyard, where numerous abandoned steam engines lay was a fun playground to finish the tour.
We then arrived into the small town of Uyuni where we said a sad goodbye to our wonderful guide Leo. The whole trip was just breathtaking from start to finish and this was also due to the great people we got to share it with.
Well Bolivia you have mightily impressed so far...let's hope you can keep it up!
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